A Moral and Tolerant Nation

Today I went to the Kotla to be formally presented to a gathering of villagers. I introduced myself, in Setswana, and was given applause and ululations, which thrilled me. What I said and how I said it must have been pleasing and made them happy. This means a lot because I have been struggling with this language. Thankfully Kgomotso (which means 'comfort'), the Setswana teacher at Kopong Jr Secondary school, has agreed to tutor me. She's a lovely woman and completely won me over when she asked my age and was stunned--she thought I was 20 years younger!

The Kotla is an open-air gathering place for the villagers and the seat of the Kgosi, the hereditary chief of the village. The Kotla itself is similar to the palapas I had seen in Guatemala: a large patio encircled by a half wall and covered with a thatch roof. It is a place where people 'hang out' and where the chief holds court. People bring disagreements and problems to the chief, and to his advisors, and things are sorted out. Botswana has a police sector, but unless something is of a definite criminal nature (such as murder, etc.), most things are taken care of by the Kgosi. Each time I have been by the Kotla, I have seen a group of men sitting in a circle under a tree having discussions. I do not pretend to understand how things work at this early stage of my sojourn here, but it is intriguing to see a culture that seems to have blended traditional customs with modern needs. If your goat wanders into the neighbor's yard and is killed by their dog, and you cannot work it out between you, no need to take it to small claims court, or to Judge Judy. There is recourse in the center of town.

At today's gathering Rra Motigwa, a coordinator from the Office of the President, spoke about the disabled, and Botswana's work on their behalf. "We are a moral and tolerant nation" he said. I watched as the meeting opened with a prayer, then greetings and introductions (including mine) and then with entertainment. A group of women entered, singing and swinging their hips. How did I end up in a country that loves fat asses? Why did it take so long to get my fat ass here? As the women swung their hips and sang, people in the audience patted their rumps affectionately. Someone here told me that women should be able to 'talk with their derriere as they walk away.' My photo doesn't do it justice, but one woman was definitely 'speaking from behind." Music and dance break out all the time. Note the official following the women out of the Kotla, who couldn't help doing his own jig...

The purpose of this morning's gathering was to present gifts to two disabled children from the village. Botswana has many OVC's (orphaned and vulnerable children), a legacy of the continuing AIDS epidemic. The gift that was presented, one to a 10-year-old girl, the other to a 7-year-old boy, was startling to me--it looked exactly like our weekly rations from the Peace Corps during our home stay. In the photo you may note toilet paper, a plastic bucket, the exact same blanket we were issued, as well as other household products. I was relieved to see a doll in one package, and a soccer ball in another, despite the fact that the boy could not walk. Later in the program the minister announced that the government was giving the boy a wheelchair.

Four hours later (Botswana IS a tolerant nation) the gathering ended with more singing, a short drama, and closing prayers. All of this was conducted in Setswana. When the dignitaries left the building, the community began to elect members for the Red Cross. The official language of Botswana is English and business and government is conducted in English. The election proceeded in Setswana with the moderator writing everything in English, 'chairperson', 'vice chairperson,' etc. People's conversations, although usually in Setswana, seem to be salt-and-peppered with English. Phrases are dropped in here and there, and to my great relief all numbers are in English (!)

Back at school, the students were taking English exams. I asked to see one of the exams and was impressed to find these 13 and 14-year-olds were being asked to read and respond to sophisticated short stories, poems, and drama. And here I am introducing myself in kindergarten Setswana...

entering the Kotla

gifts and the Minister

dancing out the door

tonight's sunset

The day ended with another promise that furniture will be delivered tomorrow, with more pula (rain) and a rainbow!